by Roger Grody

The elevated cuisine at new Star Leaf in Pasadena celebrates Southeast Asian culinary traditions often associated with street vendors.

LOS ANGELES OFFERS unparalleled opportunities for exploring the diverse cuisines of Asia—tiny bánh mì shops and dim sum palaces in the San Gabriel Valley, sushi bars on Sawtelle Boulevard, barbecue feasts in Koreatown—and some of the best food is served in unpretentious storefronts.

But steps from Pasadena Playhouse is Star Leaf, a particularly elaborate setting in which to enjoy various Southeast Asian cuisines. The first stateside location of a chain with 40-plus restaurants in Asia, Star Leaf is the antithesis of the endearing holes-in-the-wall chronicled by legendary L.A. food writer Jonathan Gold.

While some of its dishes are inspired by street foods, others have a royal pedigree that surely informed the restaurant's design.

Founder of the concept, restaurateur Ruth Lin, brought in a team including the former chef of the Singaporean prime minister to kick off the Pasadena project.

The dining room, bathed in jade green tones, features dark-stained wood, ornate tilework and contemporary globe pendants that evoke traditional Asian lanterns; the generous patio embraces the energy of the Playhouse Village district.

Singapore’s landmark Raffles Hotel has been suggested as an inspiration for the design, but the palm-frond-laden Southeast Asian colonial vibe also incorporates Craftsman elements that tie it to the Crown City. The adjoining wraparound bar dispenses lychee martinis and Singapore slings.

Royal fried rice is laced with seafood and crowned with a delicate sheet of fish roe for an elegant expression. Shrimp cakes on lemongrass skewers arrive with a spirited chili dipping sauce. Thai staple hot-and-sour tom yum soup, elevated with prawns and mussels, serves an entire table. Attractively plated soft-shell-crab summer rolls arrive with a mango dipping sauce.

The Royal Thai Curry beautifully balances its assertive spices and soothing coconut milk. The dish, often featuring duck eggs, potatoes and shrimp, arrives with a French-style baguette for mopping up the sauce. The shrimp can be switched out for more luxurious soft-shell crab or lobster. A mahogany-hued vegetarian curry presents deep Malaysian flavors.

Twelve-hour-braised Angus short ribs—a formidable bone is plated with the meat to dramatic effect— is accompanied by a mild green curry sauce. Lamb chops with prominent grill marks arrive with a minted chimichurri, charred tomatoes and cauliflower purée. Japanese A5 Wagyu is treated with a green curry-coconut sauce, together as decadent as the surroundings.

An unpretentious pork collar proves an unexpected standout; the tender and beautifully caramelized meat is served alongside lettuce wraps, mint and a pungent, garlicky dipping sauce.

The dessert menu features a soulful Vietnamese coffee flan presented in a delicate caramel cage; a panna cotta is served in a coconut shell and topped with tropical fruit.

The modest, mostly California wine list offers sparkling wines, sauvignon blancs and pinot noirs that pair well with spicy foods; the cocktails and Asian beers also suit.

Star Leaf wraps its eclectic celebration of Asian traditions in a sultry package that's hard to resist.

Star Leaf, 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.345.5371, starleafusa.com

From the pages of Performances Magazine, September 2024